Care guide

Fish tank basics

Most fish deaths are water quality, not bad luck. Cycle the tank, test the water, change the water.

Never add fish to a tank that has not finished cycling. Ammonia and nitrite burn gills at levels far below what looks like a "small" reading.

Cycling the tank

Fish waste turns into ammonia. Bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite, and a second colony converts nitrite to far-less-toxic nitrate, which you remove with water changes. Growing those colonies is "cycling" and takes roughly four to eight weeks.

  • Set up the tank, filter and heater and run them with no fish.
  • Add an ammonia source — bottled ammonia, or a pinch of fish food daily.
  • Test every couple of days and log the readings.
  • The cycle is finished when ammonia and nitrite both read 0 and nitrate is climbing.

What to test, and what is safe

ParameterFreshwaterSaltwater / reef
Ammonia0 ppm0 ppm
Nitrite0 ppm0 ppm
Nitrateunder 20 ppmunder 10 ppm
pH6.5–7.88.1–8.4
Temperature74–80°F76–82°F
Salinity—1.023–1.026 sg

Use a liquid test kit rather than strips — strips drift badly as they age. Stability matters more than hitting a perfect number: a steady pH of 7.9 beats one that swings between 7.2 and 8.2.

Water changes

A weekly 20–30% change suits most stocked freshwater tanks; lightly stocked reefs often do 10–15% weekly. Always match temperature, and dechlorinate tap water before it goes in. If nitrate keeps climbing past your target, change more water or feed less — those are almost always the two causes.

Stocking sensibly

  • Add fish slowly — a few at a time, weeks apart, so the bacteria keep up.
  • Check adult size, not shop size. Plenty of "starter" fish outgrow small tanks.
  • Schooling species need groups of six or more, or they stress and hide.
  • Betta are solitary with fins others will nip — plan tankmates carefully.

Track it in the Ark

Log each water test and the Ark flags anything outside the safe range, charts the trend, and keeps your water-change and stocking history in one place.

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