Never add fish to a tank that has not finished cycling. Ammonia and nitrite burn gills at levels far below what looks like a "small" reading.
Cycling the tank
Fish waste turns into ammonia. Bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite, and a second colony converts nitrite to far-less-toxic nitrate, which you remove with water changes. Growing those colonies is "cycling" and takes roughly four to eight weeks.
- Set up the tank, filter and heater and run them with no fish.
- Add an ammonia source — bottled ammonia, or a pinch of fish food daily.
- Test every couple of days and log the readings.
- The cycle is finished when ammonia and nitrite both read 0 and nitrate is climbing.
What to test, and what is safe
| Parameter | Freshwater | Saltwater / reef |
|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | 0 ppm | 0 ppm |
| Nitrite | 0 ppm | 0 ppm |
| Nitrate | under 20 ppm | under 10 ppm |
| pH | 6.5–7.8 | 8.1–8.4 |
| Temperature | 74–80°F | 76–82°F |
| Salinity | — | 1.023–1.026 sg |
Use a liquid test kit rather than strips — strips drift badly as they age. Stability matters more than hitting a perfect number: a steady pH of 7.9 beats one that swings between 7.2 and 8.2.
Water changes
A weekly 20–30% change suits most stocked freshwater tanks; lightly stocked reefs often do 10–15% weekly. Always match temperature, and dechlorinate tap water before it goes in. If nitrate keeps climbing past your target, change more water or feed less — those are almost always the two causes.
Stocking sensibly
- Add fish slowly — a few at a time, weeks apart, so the bacteria keep up.
- Check adult size, not shop size. Plenty of "starter" fish outgrow small tanks.
- Schooling species need groups of six or more, or they stress and hide.
- Betta are solitary with fins others will nip — plan tankmates carefully.
Track it in the Ark
Log each water test and the Ark flags anything outside the safe range, charts the trend, and keeps your water-change and stocking history in one place.
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